The resale fashion market is witnessing remarkable growth, yet a troubling waste crisis persists, particularly impacting the Global South. Platforms like Vinted have become the largest retailers by sales volume in countries such as France, while the United States sees an estimated 33% of clothing purchases as secondhand. Despite this surge in popularity, experts warn that the overwhelming influx of low-quality clothing from affluent regions is exacerbating environmental issues and hindering effective recycling efforts.
In 2024, eBay generated over $2.3 billion in listings, with 1.3 million active buyers. Meanwhile, The RealReal reported an adjusted EBITDA of $9.3 million for the year, marking its first profitable quarter in late 2023. These figures highlight a growing consumer preference for sustainable fashion. Yet, the reality on the ground presents a stark contrast, particularly in regions such as Accra, Ghana, where waste accumulation has reached alarming levels.
Many secondhand retailers in the Global South, like those in Kantamanto Market, express concern over the unintended consequences of the booming resale market in the Global North. High-quality secondhand clothing is being rapidly exhausted, leaving an oversupply of unsellable items that ultimately contribute to environmental degradation. Andrew Rough, CEO of the Scottish circular fashion hub ACS, describes this situation as the Global South becoming a “dumping ground” for the North.
The Or Foundation, a non-profit organization operating in Kantamanto Market, highlights the challenges faced by communities that depend on secondhand clothing. Liz Ricketts, the organization’s co-founder, emphasizes the urgent need for global collaboration to address the imbalance in the secondhand clothing trade. She notes that the rising demand for high-quality garments has created competition that often sidelines the needs of communities reliant on lower-quality imports.
As the secondhand market continues to grow, the sorting processes for clothing collected in the Global North often overlook local expertise. Charities and thrift shops initially receive donations, but the vast majority of unsold garments are offloaded onto textile recycling companies. Typically, items that cannot be sold are categorized and exported to various regions, with “first selection” items going to Eastern Europe and the rest, often deemed “Africa grade,” sent to the Global South.
In May 2025, an event led by the Or Foundation in London illustrated these challenges. Participants were tasked with grading secondhand clothing, but local retailers from Ghana quickly pointed out that virtually all items required reassignment to lower quality categories. Ultimately, only 18% of each bale that arrives in Ghana is deemed first selection, despite many retailers paying upwards of $700 per bale.
The influx of low-quality clothing has severe financial implications for retailers in Kantamanto Market. Following a devastating fire that destroyed much of the market in January 2025, a census revealed that the cost of bales has increased significantly, forcing retailers to charge at least $3 per item to break even. This rise in costs is exacerbated by the scarcity of high-quality garments, with many items now priced closer to $5 to compensate for losses.
The current model of textile sorting is becoming increasingly ineffective due to the rise of fast fashion. Dounia Wone, Chief Impact Officer at luxury resale platform Vestiaire Collective, states that only 10% of newly produced clothing is suitable for profitable resale, leading to a greater reliance on lower-quality items. This shift has significant repercussions for charities and secondhand retailers, as they face an overload of low-value goods that are costly to handle.
The need for a more equitable approach to the secondhand market is evident. There are calls for better communication and collaboration between stakeholders in the Global North and South. As Ricketts articulates, fostering dialogue could lead to a better understanding of what retailers truly need.
The path forward is challenging, with suggestions ranging from sending low-quality goods directly to landfill to amending extended producer responsibility legislation to benefit countries most affected by the waste crisis. The complexity of these issues underscores the necessity for solidarity and innovative solutions.
As the global fashion landscape continues to evolve, addressing the systemic flaws in the secondhand clothing trade will be paramount. Without a concerted effort to rethink practices and promote sustainability, the environmental burden will only intensify, highlighting the urgent need for change in how we approach fashion consumption and waste management.
